2008 | Frank Bonanno

Yearly Archives: 2008

Thoughts on Liver


When I write for this blog, I mostly like to focus on Colorado game and
produce—when the flavor peak hits, how to find good, organic examples,
and possibly how to cook it. Not today. Today I’d like to take a moment to
talk about foie gras.
I really like it. I like to sear it; I like to chill it; I like to eat it. I offer it to
friends in my home and guests in my restaurants for the rich flavor and
creamy texture and nutty aroma. I even like the crackling sound it makes
when I crisp up the sear. Yesterday, I received an email expressing
disappointment in my support of the unethical treatment of geese, and I
thought that in addition to responding to that writer directly, I’d write a little
about it here.
I think what troubled that writer the most is “gavage”—tube feeding a goose
so much food that its liver [ Read More ]

Osteria Marco


The new restaurant—Osteria Marco—just got reviewed by Jason Sheehan. I found out it
was coming when I was in Jersey for the holidays and Westword sent photographers by
the restaurant. It’s scary—knowing a writer came in completely undetected (three times),
knowing I wasn’t even at Marco the last time he stopped in, not knowing how he felt
about the experience. Picked up a copy as early as I could get my hands on one. I wish
that food critics didn’t affect me, but they do. A) It is a true, objective response to a
dining experience and b) newspapers have the power to direct major traffic our way. A
bad review would torture me for weeks. Months even.
This is a good review (you really should come by yourself sometime). One clarification:
Jason thinks we used “a lot money” to open the place. I only wish.
I’d mentioned before that my dream spot would have whole suckling pig (we’re doing
that [ Read More ]